Anthony Bourdain once called Sarawak laksa "breakfast of the gods," and locals won't argue with him. It bears no real resemblance to the coconut-curry laksas found in the rest of Malaysia — Sarawak laksa is built on a sour, tamarind-tinged broth layered with a house-made sambal, dried shrimp, galangal, lemongrass and a dozen other spices, poured over rice vermicelli.
A proper bowl comes topped with shredded chicken, prawns, strips of omelette and a scattering of bean sprouts and coriander, with a wedge of lime and extra sambal belacan on the side for anyone who wants more heat. The paste itself takes hours to prepare, which is why most Kuching families still buy it from the same stalls their parents did rather than making it from scratch.
Everyone in Kuching has their own answer to "where's the best laksa," and the honest answer is that it's hard to find a bad bowl — this is a dish the city takes seriously. Order it first thing in the morning, the way it's meant to be eaten, ideally at a kopitiam table with the ceiling fans going and the day still cool.